I think locomotives are masterpieces of engineering work. If you just imagine back in the 20s, they didn’t have the advancement in tools, technology, and nothing before like it to go on. When they built them, they were made to last. They are just amazing, and I love watching them as they chug along the rails.
I don’t model in the locomotive era, but I do have a few Mikados on my layout, just because I like them.
They classify locomotives by how many wheels the engine has. For instance, my Mikados are classified as 4-6-2. There are 4 small wheels in front, 6 drive wheels, and 2 trailing wheels. You can use this type of classification on any locomotive. So when you hear someone talking about a 4-8-4, you will know that is a heavy-duty locomotive.
Running locomotives on an N scale layout can cause problems. Locomotives are more prone to derail; your radius must not be too tight.
If you are planning your layout in the locomotive era, track laying is going to be very critical. Much more attention should be paid to clean or smooth joints. I would use longer turnouts (nothing shorter than a #6; #8 would be ideal), and your radius should not be any tighter than 12″.
This is because locomotives are not as forgiving of irregular track faults as electric diesels are. So being extra picky about how you lay track will go a long way in keeping locomotives on the track.
I mentioned a few things that may have caused you some questions.
What are # turnouts? Manufacturers make different lengths of turnouts, #4s being the shortest, and they get longer as the # goes up. The longer the turnout, the longer the lead to the frogs (the middle part of the turnout where the change of direction happens). The length to the frogs makes a huge difference because the longer lead onto the frog gives the wheels of your engine and rolling stock a chance to adjust as they enter the frog. For whatever reason, locomotives have trouble going through #4 turnouts. I’ve read many accounts and experienced myself that many locomotives seem to derail more often on #4 turnouts. Even regular diesel engines have some problems with #4s. So if you use #4s, they are much better used in staging areas where slow speed is the norm.
On your main line, I only use #6 and have a few #8s and don’t often have any problems with derailments when going through these turnouts.
Your radius (curves) in N scale should not be any tighter than 11″.
How you determine the tightness is by measuring the inside rail from inside rail to inside rail like a half moon. If that distance between the two points is less than 11″, you will risk having derailments. 1. If you have a long engine, they won’t turn much more than 11″. 2. You are extending your coupler’s extreme movement to its side, and rail cars have a tendency to derail because the couplers are too tight, which will make them derail. Passenger cars, especially, will have problems with a tight radius because they are longer cars than most and should have a more gentle curve.
I have one area on my layout with a 10″ radius. I cannot run passenger cars on that route because it’s too tight, and they derail over time going through that area. I also have a few engines that can negotiate the 10″ radius but will derail from time to time.
So how tight you make your curves matters. Ideally, 12″ should be as tight as you should go, but sometimes you may have to push it tighter because of limited room. When designing your layout, this is something you always want to keep in the back of your mind and plan on no less than a 12″ radius.
You can run tighter radius if you are planning on shorter engines and rolling stock. However, most locomotives won’t run well on radius less than 11″. You would be saving yourself some frustrations by keeping your radius at 11″ or more.
Until next time,
Happy railroading!